Taigen Sherman: 3D print fix for no track tensioner?
07-01-2022, 07:32 AM
#26
That’s way more complicated a process than what I did.
punch out the two bearings in the taigen, drill it out and install larger bearings I got off evilbay with the bearing adhesive.
punch out the two bearings in the taigen, drill it out and install larger bearings I got off evilbay with the bearing adhesive.
07-01-2022, 09:54 AM
#27
You didn't need to shave down the back of the idler? Like so:
On mine, the wheel ends up sitting too far out from the hull and not lining up with the rest of the wheels if you don't shave it.
On mine, the wheel ends up sitting too far out from the hull and not lining up with the rest of the wheels if you don't shave it.
07-01-2022, 10:03 AM
#28
Ya know, I have not put the tracks back on that tank yet. I thought I thought I calculated where the backset was correctly but now you have me thinking.
I will have to look back into that. The chassis is out away right now as it’s the only one I did and the tank is not built yet.
I will have to look back into that. The chassis is out away right now as it’s the only one I did and the tank is not built yet.
07-01-2022, 10:46 AM
#29
Ya know, I have not put the tracks back on that tank yet. I thought I thought I calculated where the backset was correctly but now you have me thinking.
I will have to look back into that. The chassis is out away right now as it’s the only one I did and the tank is not built yet.
I will have to look back into that. The chassis is out away right now as it’s the only one I did and the tank is not built yet.
But otherwise what I'm doing is basically same as you. Drill it out and put 2 bearings in each wheel. Except you drilled all the way through and secured everything with glue. I'm just gonna leave the front bearing seat as it is and just use a Mato bearing in there. Then drill a pocket from the back, not quite all the way through to fit another Mato bearing in there. Leaving a small ledge sandwiched in the middle between the inner and outer bearing to secure the wheel to them. Basically exactly like the Taigen wheel was originally designed just narrower after shaving back the center of the wheel.
Your way is a bit simpler because you just drill a single new hole for both bearings to sit in so you know they will both be aligned with each other. I'm drilling a separate new pocket for the inside bearing that has to line up with the existing pocket for the outside bearing so that both bearings end up sitting centered relative to eachother so the wheel doesn't end up cockeyed or wobbling when spinning. I don't have a lathe to make sure they are lined up so I ordered a counterbore bit to be able to do it on my drill press. Atleast that's the plan, just waiting on the bit to arrive.
