CARF Ultra Flash Evo build thread +
10-17-2022, 03:02 PM
#451
My choice of servos start with what I can get in HV, and I will never go back to standard voltage servos ever again.
I've used MKS servos in my Pilot 103 Slick, and even some Bluebird servos in my Odyssey. Bluebird servos have come a long way. Don't rule those out.
I'm not attached to any one brand, and will check out anything if the specs align with what I'm looking for.
I've used MKS servos in my Pilot 103 Slick, and even some Bluebird servos in my Odyssey. Bluebird servos have come a long way. Don't rule those out.
I'm not attached to any one brand, and will check out anything if the specs align with what I'm looking for.
10-17-2022, 07:17 PM
#452
My Feedback: (1)
Actually, CARF uses an epoxy / fiberglass layup which is vacuumed bagged in a mold. The only thing is that they are using some rohacell instead of some balsa to give the layup some thickness. The rohacell is a type of foam but it is sandwiched between some epoxy / glass layers. See https://www.azom.com/materials-video...spx?VidID=3116
There is a very light layer of fiberglass on the seams is all I see. But my point is that is not a epoxy resin/fiberglass layup. Not saying its not safe, it just much weaker than glass in terms of rash resistance. Its like handling a foamy you have to be careful.
My old JL 1.9m viper is heavy glass and rock solid bullet proof more my style!
My old JL 1.9m viper is heavy glass and rock solid bullet proof more my style!
10-17-2022, 10:01 PM
#453
My Feedback: (11)
Actually, CARF uses an epoxy / fiberglass layup which is vacuumed bagged in a mold. The only thing is that they are using some rohacell instead of some balsa to give the layup some thickness. The rohacell is a type of foam but it is sandwiched between some epoxy / glass layers. See https://www.azom.com/materials-video...spx?VidID=3116
10-17-2022, 10:04 PM
#454
My Feedback: (11)
I bought a rebel pro recently and Im not a fan of it. Its foam, and very light an weak. A bouncy landing broke the nose off because I put too much weight up there. I dont have this jet in hand until Thursday but I was told by carf they are all made the same. They are NOT glass jets. I wish they were. I have glass jets, there is a distinct difference. I build things out of glass, been repairing glass. The rebel needed a different approach to fixing it as the foam turns into dust.
10-17-2022, 10:06 PM
#455
My Feedback: (11)
Per carf and my email to them:
Hi Joey,
Essentially yes. All use a foam/epoxy/carbon/wood construction.
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 11, 2022, at 2:40 PM, Joey Thompson wrote:
>
>
> Hi Mike, are all the carf jets made out of the same stuff (Airex?)
>
>
Hi Joey,
Essentially yes. All use a foam/epoxy/carbon/wood construction.
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 11, 2022, at 2:40 PM, Joey Thompson wrote:
>
>
> Hi Mike, are all the carf jets made out of the same stuff (Airex?)
>
>
10-18-2022, 04:56 AM
#456
My Feedback: (1)
essyou35 - did you ask CARF if they would make you a heavy duty model? I had a similar complaint with another maker and they agreed to make me a stronger and more durable fuselage.
I tend to beat the crap out of my models in the shop, and I have not dented my Ultra Flash. It seems plenty strong.
I tend to beat the crap out of my models in the shop, and I have not dented my Ultra Flash. It seems plenty strong.
10-18-2022, 10:36 AM
#457
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Kortessem, BELGIUM
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Something like a layer of balsa between the glass lay up, soaked with a pound and a half of epoxy.
Oh wait, that sounds familiar 😉
10-19-2022, 12:29 PM
#458
My Feedback: (11)
These MKS servos sure do look nice, came in fancy packaging as well.
The HBL550s will go on the ailerons and elevator, and my hitec D950TW will go on the rudder, steering and flaps. It will give me some comparison in the long term.
I got a power box pioneer today and was shocked at how small it is, Im impressed. That may be my new go to.
The HBL550s will go on the ailerons and elevator, and my hitec D950TW will go on the rudder, steering and flaps. It will give me some comparison in the long term.
I got a power box pioneer today and was shocked at how small it is, Im impressed. That may be my new go to.
10-19-2022, 01:12 PM
#459
My Feedback: (53)
These MKS servos sure do look nice, came in fancy packaging as well.
The HBL550s will go on the ailerons and elevator, and my hitec D950TW will go on the rudder, steering and flaps. It will give me some comparison in the long term.
I got a power box pioneer today and was shocked at how small it is, Im impressed. That may be my new go to.
The HBL550s will go on the ailerons and elevator, and my hitec D950TW will go on the rudder, steering and flaps. It will give me some comparison in the long term.
I got a power box pioneer today and was shocked at how small it is, Im impressed. That may be my new go to.
They are my go servo for steering, cheaper then my previous one, the HBL950…..I used a lot of the upper line and they are nicer if it’s possible….the 550 will serve you well in this application.
10-22-2022, 08:41 PM
#460
My Feedback: (11)
Just to follow up and eat a little crow about the flash,
I got my flash and have been assembling it. It is built way stronger than my rebel. While it does use a foam, it seems to have a thicker glass layer on it.
As an example, I had flamout with my rebel and had to gear up land it, dented the leading edge of the wing. To fix it, I had to cut a small access hatch on the bottom of the wing to reach the inside of the leading edge for repair. I literally did this with an exacto knife and it cut it like butter.
On my JL viper I had a similar repair and I have to use a dremel cutting wheel. The exacto knife works nice as there is no material loss so thats a plus.
I havent tested it yet on the flash, but rubbing alcohol will remove the paint on the rebel as well.
I got my flash and have been assembling it. It is built way stronger than my rebel. While it does use a foam, it seems to have a thicker glass layer on it.
As an example, I had flamout with my rebel and had to gear up land it, dented the leading edge of the wing. To fix it, I had to cut a small access hatch on the bottom of the wing to reach the inside of the leading edge for repair. I literally did this with an exacto knife and it cut it like butter.
On my JL viper I had a similar repair and I have to use a dremel cutting wheel. The exacto knife works nice as there is no material loss so thats a plus.
I havent tested it yet on the flash, but rubbing alcohol will remove the paint on the rebel as well.
10-25-2022, 09:56 AM
#461
My Feedback: (11)
Me and electric retracts do not mix. I already burned up my gear controller because I plugged the brake into the retract slot. The brown and black wires look the same to me and I had them switched.
JP ER-150 I see they have a knock off on amazon, where can I get a new one?
JP ER-150 I see they have a knock off on amazon, where can I get a new one?
10-25-2022, 10:04 AM
#462
Me and electric retracts do not mix. I already burned up my gear controller because I plugged the brake into the retract slot. The brown and black wires look the same to me and I had them switched.
JP ER-150 I see they have a knock off on amazon, where can I get a new one?
JP ER-150 I see they have a knock off on amazon, where can I get a new one?
10-31-2022, 07:26 PM
#465
My Feedback: (11)
Got 4 gear controllers now, should keep me flying for a while.
Curious, how does this stock tank work? If its 1/2 full and I do a nose down dive, wont it be sucking air? Im fighting this issue with another jet that has no baffles and solution was to ensure the clunk to reach the front.
Im using the Itrap 50 (175ml) so I have some room.
Curious, how does this stock tank work? If its 1/2 full and I do a nose down dive, wont it be sucking air? Im fighting this issue with another jet that has no baffles and solution was to ensure the clunk to reach the front.
Im using the Itrap 50 (175ml) so I have some room.
11-01-2022, 03:06 AM
#466
My Feedback: (53)
Got 4 gear controllers now, should keep me flying for a while.
Curious, how does this stock tank work? If its 1/2 full and I do a nose down dive, wont it be sucking air? Im fighting this issue with another jet that has no baffles and solution was to ensure the clunk to reach the front.
Im using the Itrap 50 (175ml) so I have some room.
Curious, how does this stock tank work? If its 1/2 full and I do a nose down dive, wont it be sucking air? Im fighting this issue with another jet that has no baffles and solution was to ensure the clunk to reach the front.
Im using the Itrap 50 (175ml) so I have some room.
11-01-2022, 04:05 AM
#467
The main tank with the flat bottom does cause issues at low fuel - I had the Jet Tech version of the tanks - I can't remember if it had a baffle - I don't think so.
I badly damaged my UF on finals when the engine didn't respond to the throttle and I landed heavily short of the runway. I had about 40oz of fuel remaining and it was sucking a lot of air and it was on the brink of flaming out, but was continuing to run roughly.
I normally landed at around 50oz remaining, but cut it a little short that flight and it bit. I always landed with more than 50oz remaining after that. Bingo fuel alarm was set at 60oz. I still managed 7 min flights with a Merlin 140, using the main and 2 saddle tanks.
Paul
I badly damaged my UF on finals when the engine didn't respond to the throttle and I landed heavily short of the runway. I had about 40oz of fuel remaining and it was sucking a lot of air and it was on the brink of flaming out, but was continuing to run roughly.
I normally landed at around 50oz remaining, but cut it a little short that flight and it bit. I always landed with more than 50oz remaining after that. Bingo fuel alarm was set at 60oz. I still managed 7 min flights with a Merlin 140, using the main and 2 saddle tanks.
Paul
11-01-2022, 05:26 AM
#468
My Feedback: (53)
The main tank with the flat bottom does cause issues at low fuel - I had the Jet Tech version of the tanks - I can't remember if it had a baffle - I don't think so.
I badly damaged my UF on finals when the engine didn't respond to the throttle and I landed heavily short of the runway. I had about 40oz of fuel remaining and it was sucking a lot of air and it was on the brink of flaming out, but was continuing to run roughly.
I normally landed at around 50oz remaining, but cut it a little short that flight and it bit. I always landed with more than 50oz remaining after that. Bingo fuel alarm was set at 60oz. I still managed 7 min flights with a Merlin 140, using the main and 2 saddle tanks.
Paul
I badly damaged my UF on finals when the engine didn't respond to the throttle and I landed heavily short of the runway. I had about 40oz of fuel remaining and it was sucking a lot of air and it was on the brink of flaming out, but was continuing to run roughly.
I normally landed at around 50oz remaining, but cut it a little short that flight and it bit. I always landed with more than 50oz remaining after that. Bingo fuel alarm was set at 60oz. I still managed 7 min flights with a Merlin 140, using the main and 2 saddle tanks.
Paul
11-01-2022, 09:29 AM
#469
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Kortessem, BELGIUM
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Festo quick fittings
Be careful with festo quick fittings in the suction side of you fuel system, especially between your last tank / uat and the pump.
They can, and they will leak.
I've had it happen: there was a tiny bit of air accumulating in my fuel filter just before the pump. The festo vacuum filter lets you monitor that.
No visible air leak could be seen, but the air bubble in the filter grew ever so slightly after every flight.
After converting to solid connections, no more air in the fuel filter.
They can, and they will leak.
I've had it happen: there was a tiny bit of air accumulating in my fuel filter just before the pump. The festo vacuum filter lets you monitor that.
No visible air leak could be seen, but the air bubble in the filter grew ever so slightly after every flight.
After converting to solid connections, no more air in the fuel filter.
11-01-2022, 09:48 AM
#470
My Feedback: (11)
I only used barbed fittings, but the tank clunk is setup with zip ties not safety wire so I wanted to question it.
I only fly 4 minutes and land but I do a lot of inverted and dives.
Ive never had an issue EVER except my rebel pro which is crazy given its the simplest fuel system ever!
I only fly 4 minutes and land but I do a lot of inverted and dives.
Ive never had an issue EVER except my rebel pro which is crazy given its the simplest fuel system ever!
11-01-2022, 12:13 PM
#471
My Feedback: (53)
Be careful with festo quick fittings in the suction side of you fuel system, especially between your last tank / uat and the pump.
They can, and they will leak.
I've had it happen: there was a tiny bit of air accumulating in my fuel filter just before the pump. The festo vacuum filter lets you monitor that.
No visible air leak could be seen, but the air bubble in the filter grew ever so slightly after every flight.
After converting to solid connections, no more air in the fuel filter.
They can, and they will leak.
I've had it happen: there was a tiny bit of air accumulating in my fuel filter just before the pump. The festo vacuum filter lets you monitor that.
No visible air leak could be seen, but the air bubble in the filter grew ever so slightly after every flight.
After converting to solid connections, no more air in the fuel filter.
On the other end those Festo filter are the worst possible filter for our use…
11-03-2022, 10:14 AM
#472
My Feedback: (11)
It looks like the rudder servo mounts rightside up (top pointing towards top of vert fin) so there is no way to put screws in to hold it. You guys just using bolts and nuts to hold it in place? I could just put he top of the servo in the mount and put screws form the bottom but Im considering jut making a hatch and doing it right with screws.
Last edited by essyou35; 11-03-2022 at 10:17 AM.