Jesse Open

That minuette would sure look spiffy with an open rocker Saito, or even an Enya.

1200SportsterRider

Wow, they would each weigh as much as 2.5 Saito FA 30's, it looks right at home on it's new, soon to be home. Both are fine engines though. The FA 30-S is most likely more powerful than either.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

that's a pretty little thing! all shinny and clean.

Jim

Jesse Open

For sure they are heavier, less powerful too.
They do have a certain appeal that is hard to beat.
The modern FA-30s will do just fine, a sweet engine for sure.

1200SportsterRider

Your suggested engines would surely go along with the theme though. I ordered that covering from the UK and the antique wheels from HH.

Glowgeek

Themes are fine, if that works for you. Hard to beat modern technology for performance, if that works for you. I prefer the later and the newer style Saitos for appearance as well.

Jesse Open

Just another hobby.
I am very open to both the old and the new Saitos.
Easy to appreciate certain aspects of both.
However, I did give away last year the very first Saito open rocker 30 I bought in 1979.


Put 300 miles on a 69 year old Triumph motorcycle today. Right alongside my buddy's brand new Honda.


Looking at and ready to buy a new, electric motorcycle tomorrow.
The Triumph will be staying either way.

"Performance" indeed has many definitions, attributes and priorities

1200SportsterRider

http://ritchsbrew.com/pricing.html

Ritch's Brew has a web site, there is not much on it, it looks like you have to call them to order. I've never used their fuel. It might be worth a trial on my part.

Jesse Open

Pretty popular fuel around here. He attends the Toledo RC Expo and sells direct at discount.
Good fuel, seen no problems with it.
He will make fuel any way you want it.

c550

My Feedback: (16)

I have been using Riches brew for over twenty years in my Saitos with no problems. Randy is good people.

1200SportsterRider

Good to know, I have two gallons of the Wildcat 10% with 18% full synthetic, I have stretched it by trying some S&W 15% with 17% full syn. I guess I'll order up some Ritches Brew with 10% and 20% full synthetic.


The best fuel I ever ran, my engines will miss it.

Jesse Open

I was given a few cases of this stuff about three years ago. Maybe collector's item now!

Best I have used, for quite some time now. Should be able to get it as long as I need it.
They should do real well on Ritch's Brew too.

Glowgeek

Gorgeous hand crafted fueling station, Gary.

brickwoodward

okay, I’ll chime in? I’ve been getting an inherited Ultra Stik up to flying shape. It has a 125 on it. Best on age I can tell is about an 06-07 build.

I put a prop on it and hand turned it to see the rockers work, put it on compression and pushed both valves open. Took the back plate off and verified the piston rod and crank all turn in the right order. Took the prop back off and balanced it, and put it back on and all of a sudden, no compression. Verified both valves are opening and closing, although I didn’t check the sequence. Still no compression. It spins the same with or without a plug?

I would love to hear some thoughts before I tear it all the way down?
thanks, bill

kmeyers

remove the glow plug, set to BDC, make a mixture of marvel and sea foam and fill it up. Let it sit for a day. If the ring is a little stuck it should free up. Be sure to get the valves and springs too.

brickwoodward

thank you so much! I’ll get the sea foam tomorrow. I have plenty of marvel as that’s what all my air cooled gas engines get. The only experience I’ve had with stuck rings is when somebody hands me on and asks for a rebuild. I’ve got two soaking now to work on..

thanks again, bill

1200SportsterRider

Even with the ring stuck it would still have great compression, one of the valves it is not closing completely, not unusual for an engine that has been sitting around. This doesn't necessarily apply to other brands. To check the cam timing, place the crankpin at tdc at the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke. The valves should both be open a little and alternately open and close as you rock the crank back and forth a little. A few degrees each side of tdc.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Figure I'll ask what would be a good tank size for the 150 under the following conditions:

Normal flights do not exceed the 9 minute timer on the TX. This one will be doing 3D so likely an equal mix between half and full.

Still have not decided on a prop as I'm looking through my spares and want to run a spinner. Most do not have cutouts large enough to accommodate the blades.

Asking on tank size since I'm hoping to keep the weight down and on all my 125s often land with half a tank remaining.

Jesse Open

Bill,

First thing to check, is valve clearances.
Very important.
Also, since you did move the valves manually, with your fingers; Make certain that a pushrod tip has not popped off of the adjuster screw tip and is riding along the side. Happens often with Saitos.
There are several, simple methods to locate compression leaks. All tests done with wide open throttle.
Escaping air makes sounds. You can hold the exhaust port near your ear while rotating the engine and listen. Likewise, the intake. A normal release is a puff like sound, a leaky valve has a higher pitched , squeezed sound. You can also put a piece of fuel line on the case vent tap and listen for ring leakage while turniing thru compression

The quickest check is simply sealing off with your finger one at a time, in turn the exhaust port and the intake port while rotating the crank. If there is valve leakage you should notice the compression improving. Seal the port during the part of rotation where that valve would be closed.

There are other methods but those above are pretty easy.







I usually use a pressure fitting at the plug hole ,lock the crank in place and use about 5 psi to pressurize. Any valve leakage or ring to crankcase leakage shows up instantly.

With pressure in the cylinder you can tip the engine and fill the ports with fluid and judge the leakage rate by observing the bubbles.
You can run a hose from the case vent and submerge the other end in a glass of water to see the air escaping.


Still, that slipped pushrod tip is a main suspect. You should catch it straight away while doing the valve adjustment.

Glowgeek

Using my rule of always landing with 1/4 tank of fuel remaining I should think a 16oz tank would do it. Perhaps even a 14oz.

1200SportsterRider

The Minuette is coming right along, I didn't care for the supplied wheel collars for the tail gear so I made my own. The tail gear wire is 2 mm so mine are a very precise fit, since it's riding on wood I increased the footprint by about 75%.




5 of these little guys are coming from JR Propo/DeeForce

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Nice job on the collars!

Glowgeek

It had compression, then didn't, so I wouldn't tear it down. Tips here by others are right on however there is one thing you can try that takes only a few seconds.

Engines that have been sitting oftentimes gum up with semi-soft fuel deposits. Bring the engine to tdc, open the valve by depressing it with your thumbnail or screwdriver and then let it snap shut by quickly sliding your thumbnail or screwdriver off. The snapping closed action will smash the semi-soft fuel deposits away from the valve seats and will most times restore compression to start and run.

Jesse Open

Of course, you are far from jumping to a teardown at this point.


However:
Along with sluggish valve gear, that snapping tactic can help but it can unseat the pushrod tip. It can go unoticed and cause problems. That is precisely why I mentioned checking that area.

The other comments were diagnostics to aid in localizing the source of any compression losses.

For the most part, As long as the valve train is reasonably free, the engine will start and run. Usually the compression comes up nicely after running.

1200SportsterRider

Thanks Okey, I am making them for wheels also.