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Rcexl is a spark ignition system made in the far east. You can remove the synchro spark hardware if you want to save the weight & complexity. I have one of those CH synchro spark ignitions on a ST 3000; still works.
CR
CR
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Well son,rcexl as you call it is a strange reliable way of providing a reliably timed spark and not seizing your saito glow engine when you lean it out if you are using pure synthetic oil.
ps did i mention that castor turns the coils in your os f glow plug a slight bronzey colour,looks purty
ps did i mention that castor turns the coils in your os f glow plug a slight bronzey colour,looks purty
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Saito 1.25 run with C&H Ignition
Approximate time on engine at start=1 hour on glow plug.
Saito 1.25
Prop====Xoar 15x8
Fuel====Wildcat 2/4 10% full 18% synthetic
Plug====C&H Ignition Spark Plug
Exhaust=Stock cast muffler
Timing==30 degrees BTDC
Max rpm=9,170, one click leaner it slows, three clicks leaner it quits.
Idle rpm=1,650 sustainable for 2 full minutes and more
Amount of fuel used=14oz, I deliberately let the tank run empty, it simply quit after the last drop.
Picture #1 is at full blatt, Picture #2 is plenty of oil.
I am not going to experiment with timing changes, it's perfect the way it is.
Approximate time on engine at start=1 hour on glow plug.
Saito 1.25
Prop====Xoar 15x8
Fuel====Wildcat 2/4 10% full 18% synthetic
Plug====C&H Ignition Spark Plug
Exhaust=Stock cast muffler
Timing==30 degrees BTDC
Max rpm=9,170, one click leaner it slows, three clicks leaner it quits.
Idle rpm=1,650 sustainable for 2 full minutes and more
Amount of fuel used=14oz, I deliberately let the tank run empty, it simply quit after the last drop.
Picture #1 is at full blatt, Picture #2 is plenty of oil.
I am not going to experiment with timing changes, it's perfect the way it is.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 02-08-2017 at 08:57 AM. Reason: Add content
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It seems a bit of a shame to put an ignition system on a Saito 56. It is a sweet running engine as-is. Maybe the best Saito they designed. I don't have anything against ignition, but I enjoy the stock 56 a lot.
I know was just havin fun,lost a valve spring out of an 82 on the shed floor somewhere and it got me thinking we don't often discuss them.Dave was on a toy run just before last christmas with a lot of other riders,was following a guy riding an early softy with a new factory 150 competition engine he'd just run in.Every time we got to a town where we slowed down to 30mph he'd pull the clutch and smoke the rear tyre up while bouncing it off the rev limiter which sounded like around nine thou.A few miles further on we were all on the highway sitting on 80 to 90mph when i heard his engine start to make slight popping sounds before he pulled over,we stopped to to see if he needed help.One of his mates pulled the airbox cover off and there's a valve head with a short bit of stem attached and here's my question..what do you think the mechanical sequence of events was in slow motion?? bearing in mind i'm a spraypainter who sticks to what he knows well and has an opinionated view on castor oil and 125's
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I would suspect that the valves were cut down to be just barely larger in diameter than the valve seat, (for weight reduction) and the seat was cut to a steep angle. The valve was blown through the seat and the stem broke when the valve hit the curve in the intake tract. That's one scenario, there are many others. I envy your painting skills, speaking of envy, I took my Light Green and Dark Green Envy Sporty for a short 50 mile ride yesterday, topped it off with 2.5 gallons of fresh 93 octane Exxon.
And, speaking of the 1.25, you would have to experience the smoothness during acceleration to believe it. The next time I run the 1.25, I'm going to catch the oil and take a picture. The 1.25 has a rear vent, which I prefer.
And, speaking of the 1.25, you would have to experience the smoothness during acceleration to believe it. The next time I run the 1.25, I'm going to catch the oil and take a picture. The 1.25 has a rear vent, which I prefer.
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Pete, there's such a thing as bad engines that will never run like they should. Anything could be messing that engine up. If you had a few of them you could swap out parts like the racing guys do. I read all that you say about yours and it does sound like a gremlin somewhere.
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Barry, Pete would be talking about a very souped up 150 cubic in After Market engine that costs about 10,000 bucks. It's unlikely to have any stock parts in it. Turning an engine with a 5+ inch stroke at 9,000 would be definitely pushing the limits.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 02-09-2017 at 12:55 PM.
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Pete, there's such a thing as bad engines that will never run like they should. Anything could be messing that engine up. If you had a few of them you could swap out parts like the racing guys do. I read all that you say about yours and it does sound like a gremlin somewhere.
CR
Barry here's a pic of my bike and it's guard dog saito.He's pretty mild unless you wear sheepskin ugg boots or smell like synthetic oil.As far as bike engines go we had a trouble free run for years with the japanese brands,you knew you were getting good stuff.Lately thats changed a bit as major manufacturers shift there production overseas to cut costs on the smaller to mid sized motorcycles,i can't go in to details.
ps nice colour scheme on your bike dave
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Thanks Pete, yep the green bike still draws a crowd wherever I park it, not a single scratch on it yet.
I am going to run Saito .56 today I bought from a friend, I have a Xoar 12x6 on it. I installed new Boca Bearings in it, not sure it needed them, but I like to tinker so, it got new bearings.
I am going to run Saito .56 today I bought from a friend, I have a Xoar 12x6 on it. I installed new Boca Bearings in it, not sure it needed them, but I like to tinker so, it got new bearings.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 02-11-2017 at 03:53 AM.
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Saito .56 break run in of new piston ring and bearings.
I did my usual routine of 10 minutes at 1,000 rpm intervals from 4,000 to 8,000 rpm, for 1.5 hours and 14 OZ of fuel. It's a super smooth running engine, it seems to run relaxed, if that makes any sense.
PS, I did nothing to the cylinder to prepare for the new ring, I just installed it on the piston and that was that.
Prop =====Xoar 12x6
Plug======OS-f
Fuel=====Wildcat 2/4 with 10% nitromethane and 18% full synthetic lube.
Exhaust==Saito Cast/revised muffler
Max rpm=10,105 rpm
Idle======1,800 rpm
After break in autopsy revealed all being well, the only change was the exhaust valve lash being a little tight @ .003" instead of .0039".
I did my usual routine of 10 minutes at 1,000 rpm intervals from 4,000 to 8,000 rpm, for 1.5 hours and 14 OZ of fuel. It's a super smooth running engine, it seems to run relaxed, if that makes any sense.
PS, I did nothing to the cylinder to prepare for the new ring, I just installed it on the piston and that was that.
Prop =====Xoar 12x6
Plug======OS-f
Fuel=====Wildcat 2/4 with 10% nitromethane and 18% full synthetic lube.
Exhaust==Saito Cast/revised muffler
Max rpm=10,105 rpm
Idle======1,800 rpm
After break in autopsy revealed all being well, the only change was the exhaust valve lash being a little tight @ .003" instead of .0039".
Last edited by Hobbsy; 02-11-2017 at 10:34 AM.
Saito .56 break run in of new piston ring and bearings.
I did my usual routine of 10 minutes at 1,000 rpm intervals from 4,000 to 8,000 rpm, for 1.5 hours and 14 OZ of fuel. It's a super smooth running engine, it seems to run relaxed, if that makes any sense.
PS, I did nothing to the cylinder to prepare for the new ring, I just installed it on the piston and that was that.
Prop =====Xoar 12x6
Plug======OS-f
Fuel=====Wildcat 2/4 with 10% nitromethane and 18% full synthetic lube.
Exhaust==Saito Cast/revised muffler
Max rpm=10,105 rpm
Idle======1,800 rpm
After break in autopsy revealed all being well, the only change was the exhaust valve lash being a little tight @ .003" instead of .0039".
I did my usual routine of 10 minutes at 1,000 rpm intervals from 4,000 to 8,000 rpm, for 1.5 hours and 14 OZ of fuel. It's a super smooth running engine, it seems to run relaxed, if that makes any sense.
PS, I did nothing to the cylinder to prepare for the new ring, I just installed it on the piston and that was that.
Prop =====Xoar 12x6
Plug======OS-f
Fuel=====Wildcat 2/4 with 10% nitromethane and 18% full synthetic lube.
Exhaust==Saito Cast/revised muffler
Max rpm=10,105 rpm
Idle======1,800 rpm
After break in autopsy revealed all being well, the only change was the exhaust valve lash being a little tight @ .003" instead of .0039".
That is so cool. I love the 56 i have 5 of the silly things. The only thing i do different, i run a 11X7 on 15% whatever fuel. I get about 11,500 rpms out of mine. but i like to zing mine a bit.
So thats what the correct muffler looks like. I don't know what engine the one I have is for, much smaller threads on it. Has a 45* elbow, no pipe. Think this should fly my T-Clips well?