John_M_

What happened? everyone's gone quiet.

1967brutus

I don't think anything happened.... Number of participants here is not yet at the same level as it was over on :censored: and development wise we have reached some sort of equilibrium.
Those following need time to implement things on their engines, and as said, not all of them are allready aware of us having moved to over here.

Give it time, it will pick up, I am sure.

John_M_

Well, I have messed about with the Stihl carb a bit more. Its a bit of a shoe horn fit under the cowl on the pa-18, I need to move everything forward a minimum of an 1/8" ( 3.175 mm ) to clear the firewall. It really ticks me off, I don't want to remount the cowl, and if I just move the engine forward there is no room forward to cut the cowl around the engine for the additional clearance, plus the prop drive hub will stick out the cowl near a 1/4" ( 6.35 mm ) So, I'm leaning towards getting another walbro ( same model carb that's on the engine ) and core out the hi/lo needles to fit the solenoid valve. No moving the engine or remounting the cowl would be needed, there's plenty of room for the solenoid to hang below the carb where the needles are positioned on the original carb. Either do that, or I find another airframe and start with a fresh install.

In addition, I haven't worked on the Sopwith Pup, I've been commandeered by a friend to make scale details for his Cessna 170 Tundra. I have plenty of things to do, just not enough time in a day to do them. I was out at the flight club this afternoon, was very humid, didn't even take any of the cubs to fly, but it was busy over there which is a good sign, people are starting to return to some normalcy, except gas being $7 bucks a gallon here.

1967brutus

That's a bummer, if the Stihl carb won't fit under the cowl...

7 bucks a gallon? You lucky *******.... Over here it's the equivalent of $9,50

John_M_

It fits Brutus, but it requires some modification that causes a bit of a frustration is all. That engine was a shoe horn fit in the model to begin with, the prop drive hub ended up 1 1/8" ( 28.575 mm ) forward of where it was suppose to be in the instructions, so the cowl was moved forward the same amount, that was with a new uncut cowl at the time. Replacement cowls are unavailable, as that particular model isn't made anymore. I'm on the edge already of the engine being way forward than its suppose to be, now I need to move it forward another 1/8" ( 3.175 mm ). Maybe I can make some extension tabs that just moves the cowl mounting holes forward. I'm at a quandary, as its not just about functionality, but also about the aesthetics, right now you can't really see she's long in the nose, the graphics still all line up, but with that additional 1/8", things start to go awry. I know you are the type that just gets in there and gets it done, but I'm of the type that won't except a compromise easily, I'll beat a dead horse until it wanes.

1967brutus

Which engine are we talking about exactly?

John_M_

That Gaui F-50R

1967brutus

Ah, yes, that one... Unfortunately I am not familiar enough with that engines exact layout and dimensions to be of any assistance in coming up with a possible solution

John_M_

The "R" version (rear carb) is the only one that would fit without hacking up the cowl detail too much. The "S" version (side carb) would fit as per the instructions on engine mounting / spacing, but only in the inverted position, but that hacks all the lower cowl detail, as the cylinder protrudes fully through the bottom of the cowl. The OS GF40 fit beautifully, until I put the big heavy wheels on the model, and it became a little sluggish, hence the upgrade to the F-50R.

Here's a youtube video of a guy with the exact same model as mine (1/4 scale super cub), but he put a Saito FG-61TS twin in the nose, the rocker covers just protrude the cowl each side, but way over powered,

Cat 1

My Feedback: (1)

I hit a busy spot at work with a couple of heavy weeks back to back. That’s passed now so I might get a bit of shop time now.

I have a pressure regulator almost ready to trial but it has been sitting waiting for the last part to be made.

hoping on some progress reports soon.

cmulder

Just crossd my otherwise empty mind that there was a link from the "hack a day" website to the initional url.
https://hackaday.com/2022/01/22/runn...s-on-gasoline/

Might be a suggestion to leave a comment there mentioning this topic?

1967brutus

Forgot all about that one...

Rob.m

hers my experience end trouble shooting with the solinoid driver from Raleighcopter. I am clib mate of brutus he gave me 2 month ago the life version to test it out. In the beginning the system works perfect. But after 1 month the driver runs stuck end the solinoid staid on a fix number. Last wekend I managed to vind the reason of this problem it wat the on off switch of the plane that head a false connection or resistant. Switched it out to a xt30.
in flight the only difference i can tel was the rx bat head a big voltage difference from 6.5v full bat on the first flight en dropt to 6.2v in the same flight.

sorry about my beat English 🙈.

kind regards rob

cmulder

With stuck you mean that you could not change the settings from your transmitter or did the solenoid give the same amount of fuel to the engine all the time? (regardless of trottle stick position).

This kind of "feedback" about how the system behaves when things go wrong is verry usefull to improve it and make fixing problem easier.

1967brutus

Just to help Rob out (I saw some of the issues a few weeks back): indeed it appears like the controller more or less freezes and the output value for the solenoid remains the same regardless of stick position or pressure/temp imput.

That is why I encouraged him to directly participate, because despite his english being not great (don't worry Rob, we still understand it, and if not there's always google translate ) his observations are direct observations, mine are 2nd hand.

Bert

Rob.m

Yes i mean this (did the solenoid give the same amount of fuel to the engine all the time? (regardless of trottle stick position)..

Glowgeek

Seems reasonable that a faulty/dirty switch could deliver voltage too low to operate Dave's controller. IIRC, Dave's controller operates down to 4.5v where Hans's operates down to 3.3v???

cmulder

The annoing thing with troubleshooting these kind of problems is that when the systems is "idle" (no power to soilenoid) it likely gets the normal battery voltage.
Only when the solenoid starts to work and draws current the voltage drops.
If you are "lucky" it fully resets the computer (the controller is a simple computer running a single program) causing it to restart every time.
When the voltage drops below what the computer needs to work correctly but remains above the voltage of a full reset then you could end up with random behavior like described here.

1967brutus

Yes, it does, but the weird thing is that this switch also feeds both ignition and RX, and those continue to function without issues. Never even dropping below 5V according to the logs.

So it is a bit weird.

Since Rob is still collecting the 10 posts required to be able to post attachments, pics or vids: This is the plane in question:

Rob.m

the weird thing is I don't get any notifications of rssi low or signal low while flying. the only thing I noticed was that the battery voltage was very quickly at 6.1 after flying 3 times, which was not the case recently.

Rob.m

fly it with a 2s life battery. and on dave's driver is the diode

1967brutus

Yeah, but 6,1V still should not cause problems (other than that, IF that voltage were REAL, the battery would nearly be empty...)

1967brutus

Not meant to tease you, Rob, but I think you mean "signal", correct?

Glowgeek

If it's a 2S lifepo4 pack 6.1 is below normal usable voltage. With the diode on the controller input I wouldn't be surprised to see the controller crash.

Rob.m

As a last test I put a 5v voltage regulator in as power supply for the driver and the diver also runs stuck . after placing the xt30 (switch) the whole problem is solved it looks like.